On the Threshold of Kitchen, by the Danthi sisters

Some of the most important Indian food knowledge is not to be found in the mainstream fancy, vanity publications. It is in a different kind of cookbook. The kind of cookbook self published by enterprising ladies or representative bodies of the various community kitchens of India. Communities defined by religion, geographical location, history and a variety of other things that have evolved a distinct cuisine of their own. Each of these books brims with recipes following the "a little this and a little that" advice grandmothers would be known for but are are invaluable to cooks of every stripe from the community they belong to. And are often un-celebrated but mandatory in the wedding trousseaux for girls getting married!

By that definition, On the Threshold of Kitchen, by the Danthi sisters has to be my most treasured possession. In no small part for the "Rasoda ni rani banje" (may you be the queen of your kitchen) inscribed in it by my mother. But also because, growing up in a modern Mumbai home I very rarely stepped into the kitchen, so this book that came as my "dowry" became my fallback when I needed to cook traditional Gujarati recipes in my North Indian marital home. Now everybody knows Gujarati Cuisine, but like many regional cuisine, has dialects, one of which is the cuisine of the Kutchi Bhatias. While Kutchi food is classified under Gujarati food, Kutchi cuisine is markedly different from larger Gujarati cuisine.

Ask any Kutchi Bhatia for a book on Kutchi food and they will tell you to get yourself a copy of On the Threshold of Kitchen by Bindu and Ruxmani ben Danthi. While their compendium of four books is labelled a Gujarati recipe book, hidden in its pages are classic Kutchi recipes.

"To be able to prepare a recipe that all in the family can relish, in an elegant, simple and systematic manner is in itself a source of boundless satisfaction. We only hope and pray, this little effort helps someone, someday to get a smack of that satisfaction"  It is with these charming sentiments expressed in the preface of the books, and inspired by their mother - in - law who had the talent to combine traditional recipes with meticulous measurements and timing recipes, that the Danthi sisters in law embarked on their first book on Gujarati food "For the sweet tooth - Gujarati traditional sweets" in Gujarati. This first attempt at illustrating to other women that cooking need not be daily drudgery and could in fact be a form of expressing ones creativity and affection for those they love was met with a great response. So they followed it up with 3 more, Tasty treats - Gujarati Savouries and snacks, The everyday fare - Gujarati staple cuisine and finally Luscious Accompaniments. 

Even my friend Pinky Chandan Dixit owner of Soam restaurant who is Kutchi herself swears by this book. "Not only is it the most practical handbook but it s a font of long forgotten  home style recipes."

Descended from a warrior race, Kutchis are today largely engaged in trade and commerce. The food they eat is unique in its simplicity and fresh flavour. It does not manifest itself in the names of the dishes; in fact there are a lot of dishes common to both Gujarati and Kutchi food. The difference is noticeable in the style of preparation of dishes. Where Gujarati food tends to be oily and leans towards sweet heavily spiced fried foods, Kutchi is one of the healthiest Indian communal cuisines. Usually cooked with fresh seasonal ingredients, food is brought to the table steaming, straight of the flame. The use of oil is minimal and flavorings lean toward the Surti style with a predominance of leelo masallo (or fresh green masalla), usually a combination of Ginger and Green chilies. The use of garam masalla is minimal and spicing is used to compliment the dish being cooked, at no point overwhelming the natural flavor of the food. Unlike Gujarati food, the sweetness quotient of gur or sugar is selectively used. Gur or Sugar are only added in dishes where a balance of flavors needs to be achieved like in the yoghurt based Kadhi or Khatta Mug (whole mung cooked in yoghurt) or tomato based dishes where there is a need to alleviate the acidity of the tomatoes. Some of the most traditional meals of the Kutchi Bhatias aside from the classic Jowar and bajra rotis served with lehsun Chutney are Chutti Khichdi and Osaman – Unlike normal khichdi, Chutti Khichdi made by cooking the daal and rice separately. The daal is cooked in extra water till it splits, the water is then drained and reserved, and meanwhile rice is added to the daal and cooked to a khichdi consistency. The reserved water is then spiced, and made into a Rassam-like Osaman, light, delicate, fragrant with Coriander and Curry leaves and tender coconut. Another classic meal is Khara and Mitha Chavda - fermented wheat pancakes that are salty and sweetened with gur and usually served together.